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Concerns in Older Homes: What Homebuyers and Owners Need to Know

By Chris Matthews, OwnerPublished Updated

Older homes have a lot going for them. Solid framing, mature trees, established neighborhoods and details you won’t find in new construction. They also have decades of wear, repairs and remodels behind them, some done well and some not. Whether you’re buying an older house or already living in one, knowing where the common problems hide helps you budget and avoid surprises.

Here’s what to keep an eye on, from the crawl space up to the roof.

Moisture and the crawl space

Lots of older homes in Eastern North Carolina sit on crawl spaces, and many were built before vapor barriers were common. Years of damp air underneath can mean rotted sill plates, soft subfloor around bathrooms, sagging joists, mold on framing and wet insulation hanging loose.

That moisture matters for pests too. Damp wood is exactly what subterranean termites look for, and an older home has had more years for them to find it. Old termite damage isn’t always repaired after treatment, which is one reason a termite inspection or wood-destroying insect (WDI) report is worth adding when you buy. Book the WDI report with your home inspection and you’ll get $30 off.

Foundation and structure

Some settling is normal in a house that’s stood for 50 years. What you want to know is whether it has stopped. Look for sloping floors, doors that won’t close, stair-step cracks in brick, and piers that lean or have been propped up with stacked blocks or shims. Some of these are old, stable movement. Others are still active. Our post on the signs of structural problems goes into more detail.

Electrical systems that weren’t built for today

An older home’s wiring was designed for far fewer appliances than most families run now. A few things come up often in older houses:

  • Knob-and-tube wiring. Found in some homes built before the 1940s. It has no ground wire, and the insulation is often brittle by now.
  • Aluminum branch wiring. Used in some homes built from the mid-1960s to the mid-1970s. It can overheat at connections if it isn’t handled properly.
  • Ungrounded outlets. Two-prong outlets with no ground, or three-prong outlets swapped in without a ground wire behind them.
  • Missing GFCI protection in kitchens, bathrooms, laundry areas and outdoors.
  • Crowded or outdated panels, including old fuse boxes.

If you’re noticing flickering lights or warm outlets, read up on the signs of electrical issues and call a licensed electrician.

Plumbing

Older supply lines may be galvanized steel, which corrodes from the inside and can cause low water pressure and rusty water. Some homes built from the late 1970s to the mid-1990s have polybutylene, a gray plastic supply pipe with a history of failures. Cast iron drain lines can crack or rust through after many decades. Look under sinks, run a couple of fixtures at once to check the pressure, and watch for stains on ceilings below bathrooms.

Roof, attic and ventilation

Find out the roof’s age if you can. Older homes may have more than one layer of shingles, patched valleys, or flashing around the chimney that’s been sealed and resealed. In the attic, look for water stains on the sheathing, thin or missing insulation and bath fans that vent into the attic instead of outside. Every home inspection we do includes a free drone roof inspection, which helps on steep or fragile roofs that shouldn’t be walked.

Materials that need care

A few materials from earlier decades call for caution, especially before any renovation:

  • Lead paint. Homes built before 1978 may have lead-based paint. It’s mainly a hazard when it’s chipping or peeling, or when sanding and demolition stir it up.
  • Asbestos. It shows up in some older floor tiles, pipe and duct insulation, siding and textured ceilings. Material in good shape is often safest left alone, and a qualified professional should test it before anyone disturbs it.
  • Radon. Radon can be a problem in homes of any age. The EPA recommends testing every home, and we offer radon testing.

Heating, cooling and insulation

Older homes often have less insulation, leaky windows and ductwork that’s been patched over the years. That adds up to higher power bills, rooms that never get quite comfortable and, in humid weather, more moisture getting inside. Attic insulation, sealing air leaks and duct repairs usually pay for themselves over time, and they help with humidity too.

Get the full picture before you commit

None of this means you should steer clear of older homes. Many were built with care and have held up for generations. It just means going in with your eyes open. A thorough home inspection covers the structure, roof, crawl space, attic, electrical, plumbing and HVAC, with moisture readings and infrared scanning included. Your report arrives within 24 hours, so you can make decisions while you’re still in your due diligence period.

Questions before takeoff

Frequently Asked Questions

What should I look for when buying an older home?

Pay close attention to the crawl space, foundation, roof, electrical panel and wiring, plumbing materials and any signs of past water or termite damage. A home inspection and a termite inspection together give you the clearest picture.

Do older homes have more termite problems?

Not always, but they've had more years of exposure, and older crawl spaces are often damp. Old damage isn't always repaired after treatment, so a termite inspection is worth doing on any older home.

Is knob-and-tube wiring a dealbreaker?

Not necessarily, but a licensed electrician should evaluate it. Some insurance companies won't cover homes with active knob-and-tube wiring, so check with your insurer early.

Should older homes be tested for radon?

The EPA recommends testing all homes, old or new. Radon has no color or smell, so a test is the only way to know your level.

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